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If my muscles weren't working properly, then i wouldn't be able to pull as hard as i could before the diet. I am pulling as hard and maybe more.

My improvement was based on blundering moves up to 8 moves on a 45 degree overhanging wall. Also on a dyno to a fat slopper.

An 8 move boulder problem will increase the mass of the muscle. A one move dyno at your limit will improve the recruitment of the fibers. So it is a bit odd to improve on both at the same time.

I'm about 6ft 2 and weighed 14 and a half stone. I didn't wobble when i jumped up and down on the spot but it was obvious i could loose a little weight and still not look anorexic.

I think in my unprofessional opinion is that by eating loads of protein, weight can be lost without it disappearing primarily from your muscles.

my poo is firm and dark, thanks for your concern Dave.

My experience in training and coaching strength and power for about 15 years says:

On the Atkins diet the weight loss comes primarily from water loss. When you cut carbs you lose water too and fast. Therefore you are lighter and can kick harder boulders quite quickly. In two weeks there might be possible to introduce some neural development but not real strength gains. They take months to gain. Otherwise the strength athletes wouldn't train at all but just few weeks before a comp.

Usually its very usual to develop both neural and muscular strength and power. They're quite dependant of each other. Because nerves tell the muscles to move, right? :-)

My opinion: It's a good way to lose weight trough limiting the carb intake but the training has to be hard and the proteins have to be high to compensate the energy loss. This way it's possible to save some of the hard earned muscles too.

Long term experiences with this kind of diets are not that good. Zero carbs burn fat very fast but also a lot of muscle for energy. Soon the body takes up a state called Ketosis which is not that good as the acidity of the body raises and among much worse results your breath starts to smell very bad.

For the sport climbing comp I would do an energy depleting training a week before: 2-3 hours of very light and continuous climbing to deplete the energy stores quite thoroughly. Then two days zero carbs and high on proteins and good fats. No training.

Then two to three days carb loading a lot. No training. Two days before a comp go back to normal dieting. You don't get your weight down that good this way, but you can go on for hours.

For bouldering comps your suggestion is quite ok if you want to lose weight. Your energy stores are not that good so top every problem the first try :-)

Ketosis has some very bad effects to the bodily functions and metabolism in general. You can easily find out Goggling trough the net. In fact to the body it is a poisoned state. I would recommend milder version of carb restriction: High proteins, medium fats and low carbs. Once a week or so a carb loading day. That'll keep you going.

Making myself an example when changing from power lifting to climbing as a primary sport: I lost 20kgs in 5 months by regulating mainly the carbs. My dead lift was 210kgs in January and 200kgs in May so I didn't really lose any power. Of course gained a lot in chins, dips etc. Not a Spartan diet at all... Ice cream suited me fine :-) and for those who think I have a fast metabolism: I don't.

Mr. Atkins himself died as a fat slob. Maybe a sign :-) Anyway the diet lowering HDL and raising LDL is not true. Quite the opposite really. It's done by a nutritional specialist PhD of course, no bogus.

Problems with very low carb -diets are mainly in the side of getting too little fibers and other carb related vitamins and minerals. Got to get them out of a bottle then.

I myself have tried Ketogenic diets and they work yes but can be quite boring if you don't plan the foods well. Originally from the world of power lifting I might add it's not so energetic either.

If you add a carb day at the end of the week, you have energy to go on for few days, but when training hard the long sessions really are out. Then again the ketosis is gone for 2-3 days also.

It's a good diet to try for a limited period but I wouldn't do it for long time... I'd miss my ICE CREAMS.
 

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